The Pleasure (and Power) of Pearls

The Pleasure (and Power) of Pearls

The pleasure of pearls

If I had to guess, you probably have a memory associated with pearls. A strand your mother or grandmother wore. Pearl studs you were gifted for graduation. A favorite pendant, perhaps a simple pearl dangling from a leather cord or a gold chain.

For some of us, we hold images in our minds of style icons and favorite fictional characters known for their fashions, and that includes the way they wear this classic organic gemstone.

Coco Chanel in long layers of pearls. Breakfast at Tiffany's Holly Golightly played so effortlessly by Audrey Hepburn, in her black gown and collar-like necklace of pearls. Or Carrie Bradshaw, the heroine of Sex and the City, draped in scads of faux pearls in her own deliciously over-the-top look.

And if you've ever been a bride or seen a bride, isn't pearl jewelry almost always part of the picture?

One other delight when it comes to pearls — they're lovely to touch. Cool initially, then warming to the temperature of your skin.

Close-up of a cultured freshwater pearl asymmetrical station necklace in 14K gold-fill staple chain

Pearls are classic, pearls are timeless

Pearls are classic. Pearls are timeless. Pearls say "I'm worth it."

If you're anything like me, you reach for pearls in a pinch — from creamy white to soft and sensual pink or peach. On the other hand, when you're feeling sexy or playful, don't you go for more color? Red for passion? Blue for confidence? Couldn't you mix pearls with any color and any gemstone shape?

As much as I love the classic look — a strand of semi-round pearls of any length — I'm increasingly inspired by a more contemporary take on this much-loved gemstone. I'm drawn to nugget pearls, rice pearls, a mix of irregular shapes and sizes — and combining them with a variety of other elements in earring, bracelet, necklace and pendant designs. And all of these can become the "new" modern classics.

Pearls with everything

My belief? Pearls with everything! I wear pearls with jeans, pearls with a little black dress, pearls for the finest formal occasion. Pearls for anything in between.

I especially love pearls with colored gemstones. And mixing my pearls with gemstones in contemporary shapes or in asymmetrical designs? I say yes, please. 

As a designer, I have a personal preference for working with irregular pearls — teardrops, nuggets, rectangles — while always paying attention to luster, surface quality, and how the pearls fit into the overall look. Pearls with sterling silver. Pearls with gold fill. Pearls in any number of surprising ways.

And while pearls have long been associated with women's jewelry, that's changing. Today, pearls are worn by anyone who loves them.

The power of pearls

Pearls light up any design — and your face. But the real power of pearls is their versatility. And, what they say about the person who is wearing them.

Ever notice how many politicians wear pearls? Serious pearls say serious business. Pearls with leather say Boho. Tiny pearls scattered along fine chain say sexy. Multiple strands say confidence. Unusual shapes say playful. Oversized pearls? Perhaps outsized confidence, and money! Mixed sizes and asymmetrical arrangements say fearlessly self-expressive.

So what does a jewelry wardrobe with a variety of pearls say about you?

You love your eclectic style. And you love your options.

How to style pearls

The simple strand. The multi-strand. The layered look. The knotted look. When it comes to pearl necklaces, there’s no end to ways to style this favorite gemstone. And don’t overlook the beauty of a pearl pendant simply strung, a pearl station necklace, or an elegant (and sexy) pearl Y necklace.

Styling isn’t just about necklaces, of course. Bracelet stacks of gemstones and pearls, dyed pearls in unexpected colors, pearls of all shapes, and even faux pearls in the mix — all of these are wonderful options.

Earrings? Classic pearl studs are always the right answer. Likewise, a pearl dangle in any metal at any length. Looking for more personality? Try pearls on hoops or pearls paired with gemstones in designs that surprise.

What to look for when shopping for pearls

When shopping for pearl jewelry, a few factors are worth remembering.  

  • Luster. Luster may be the most important determinant of a pearl's beauty, and refers to the sheen or radiance of the pearl's surface. Is it reflective rather than dull and chalky?  
  • Surface quality. The pearl's surface should be as clean as possible — no blemishes, no discolorations, no obvious spots or dings.  
  • Shape. The most sought-after shape is round although fine ovals, teardrops, and semi-rounds are also prized.
  • Size. Since pearls are the result of nacre that forms around an "irritant" inside a mollusk, the longer the time the nacre is building its layers, the larger the pearl will ultimately be. Larger pearls are rarer and consequently more valuable.
  • Orient. Some pearls have a slight rainbow effect to their surface known as orient, signaling quality, often more readily seen in pearls of varying shapes such as coin pearls.
  • Type/origin. Pearl type and origin — Tahitian, South Sea, Akoya, freshwater, and others — significantly affect rarity, beauty, and value.

"Natural" pearls — once all that existed, and meaning pearls grown inside a mollusk without any human intervention — are now exceptionally rare. "Cultured" pearls, either freshwater or saltwater, are those resulting from introduction of a speck of debris or other material inside the mollusk. Around that nucleus, the oyster or mussel secretes layer upon layer of nacre, the lustrous material that ultimately makes pearls so beautiful.

Most important in all this? Know what you have and understand its relative value. Perhaps more importantly — it should be beautiful to you.

A note on sourcing

The pearl market has changed significantly in recent years. Quality has become harder to find, and I use only pearls that meet my standards for luster, surface, and overall beauty. When you see a pearl in a Modern Whimsy Jewelry design, it's there because it has earned its place.

Jewelry shown above:

Back to blog