Ruby and Carnelian Jewelry From Modern Whimsy Jewelry

July's Birthstone: Ruby and Its Alternate, Carnelian

Ruby is July's traditional birthstone, and a colorful king of gems it is! Just as rich  in hue (some may say) — its alternate, carnelian.

Ruby overview

A few gemological (and other fun) facts:

  • The word "ruby" comes from Latin, meaning red. (No surprise there!)
  • Ruby is one of the hardest gemstones that exist with a 9 on the Moh's scale, like sapphire.
  • Ruby is a member of the corundum family (as is sapphire), deriving its vibrant red color from chromium.
  • The more chromium, the deeper and more saturated the red.
  • Stones with that deep red hue are rarer and more valuable — the finest rubies can rival diamonds in price!
  • Unheated rubies of premium quality are genuinely hard to find. (Most rubies on the market have been heat-treated to intensify their color.)

The rubies I use? Not the case. I have a passion for untreated gemstones — even the pricey ones. In the stones I use the color you see is the color nature gave them — and in the ruby world, that's unusual.

Ruby varieties

Rubies range from pinkish-red to purplish-red to deep blood red. In fact, we all associate rubies with red so much that "ruby red" is a common way for us to describe color. As for that bold, deep hue we think of first (are you imagining Dorothy's red slippers?), the most prized of all the ruby reds is a vivid shade sometimes called "pigeon's blood."

Burmese rubies are considered the benchmark, while Mozambique stones in recent years have become increasingly sought after, with the main differences between the two — clarity, transparency and hue.

Star rubies, cut as cabochons, are a rare occurrence, showing a six-rayed star that seems to float across the surface when in direct light. This phenomenon is called asterism, and most of us are familiar with the term star sapphire, since this occurs in sapphires as well as several other gemstones.

Rubies throughout history

The Mogok Valley in Burma (now Myanmar) has been producing rubies for centuries. And it was ancient Sanskrit texts that referred to ruby ratnaraj — "king of precious stones." Rubies meant power, wealth, luxury. In some cultures, rubies were thought to hold the power of life; warriors brought them into battle.

And did you know that rubies are mentioned several times in the Bible, associated with wisdom, virtue and of course, value? Consider the expression "a price above rubies" which is found in Proverbs, referring to a virtuous woman (her strength and integrity) as being "far above rubies." That virtue isn't measured against gold or other gems, but against rubies for their rarity and value.

By the Middle Ages, European royalty (and the very wealthy) sought rubies and believed they would assure them good fortune in health and love. 

Don't we still associate rubies with rare and exceptional beauty, with luxury, and with love?  

The allure of rubies

Rubies never take a back seat; they announce themselves! It's as if they say "here I am, and you can't ignore me!" Certainly, it's the color that is the main character in the ruby story — bold and saturated. And in jewelry, not only does ruby work in a breadth of styles, but its hues are stunning with both yellow and rose gold, as well as silver.

As for the enduring allure of this gemstone, of course it's all the associations that go along with rarity and beauty. But it's also the intensity of its red, whether the blood red we may think of first or the various purple-reds and pinkish-reds, just as captivating. And many of us have an immediate, visceral response to this range of reds — the heart beats faster, the breath quickens. These are physical responses we associate with passion! Not just love, but acts of love.

How delicious is that?

Whether you respond to the color of ruby viscerally or not, there's no doubt that you understand the rarity and beauty of this gemstone. And that alone makes any piece of jewelry with rubies — and for me, unheated rubies — a remarkable thing indeed.

Carnelian — July's alternate birthstone

Carnelian is one of those gemstones that deserves much more attention than it gets. It is a translucent to semi-opaque variety of chalcedony (a form of quartz), and like ruby, it is all about color.

Carnelian's color ranges from pale peachy-orange to a deep, rich reddish-orange. Think "fiery" — my favorite sort of carnelian.

As for this beautiful stone, consider its importance throughout history which can be traced to ancient Egypt, to the Roman Empire, in Islamic tradition, and throughout Medieval Europe. It was used in jewelry and amulets for thousands of years, valued not only for its color but considered a protective stone. (Napoleon wore an Egyptian carnelian ring acquired as part of the spoils of battle in 1799; a ring he wore for the rest of his life.)

These days, carnelian is accessible to most of us and certainly more affordable than ruby! With a Moh's hardness of 6.5-7 it is also durable, making it an excellent choice for all kinds of jewelry.

A word on carnelian treatments

Virtually all carnelian on the market has been heated and dyed to deepen and enrich its color. In fact, without treatment, the natural color is quite light. Some carnelian is heated only, although it is harder to come by.

I use both, and I note the applicable treatments on the Gemstone Treatments page. Where I've used carnelian that is heated only in a specific piece of jewelry, it's noted in the product description.

If you care about the jewelry you love — and want it to last — understanding treatments is essential to proper jewelry care.  

Symbolism, energy, and... the perfect gift

We all know the reasons that ruby is associated with passion — that range of colors! And history shows us its association with courage and life force. It is truly a stone of the heart, and as such, the traditional gift for 40th wedding anniversaries.

Carnelian is believed by some to enhance stamina, to aid in the recovery from burnout, and to boost circulation. Again — the color! How could we not feel energized wearing carnelian?

It also carries its own symbolism — courage and creativity — thought to overcome hesitation and increase confidence.

Both stones make wonderful gifts for July birthdays — ruby for those who want something classic and precious, carnelian for those who love color with a story.

A note on sourcing

I work only with stones that meet my standards for color, clarity, and overall beauty. With rubies, it's important to know that treatment is the norm rather than the exception. Heat treatment to improve color and clarity is widely accepted in the trade — permanent and stable, it does not significantly diminish a stone's value. However, a significant portion of rubies available today have been glass-filled — a process using lead glass to fill fractures, improving apparent clarity. Glass-filled rubies are much less durable and less valuable.

Whatever rubies you may purchase, you should know what treatments are in the mix!

I believe in full transparency when it comes to treatments. You can read about what I use and why on the Gemstone Treatments page.

As for the rubies in my own designs — I'll admit to being a bit of a purist. The ruby pieces I offer are made with completely untreated stones — no heat, no glass, no treatment of any kind. They are harder to find and more expensive, but when I manage to get even a small number of untreated ruby stones, I find them irresistible. There is something remarkable about sharing a gemstone exactly as Mother Nature created it — cutting and polishing aside. That's the ruby I want to put in your hands.

By the way...

If you knew how many luminaries of modern and contemporary art were born in July, you would understand why I am hard-pressed to choose one or two to recommend!

Among those you could pick from: Gustav Klimt, Frida Kahlo, Alexander Calder, and one of my favorite painters lost to the art world only recently — David Hockney. Brilliant color is certainly a hallmark of Klimt, Kahlo and Hockney, which seems very fitting in a birthstone month boasting ruby and carnelian.

Please do look up these remarkable artists. Their legacy of beauty deserves the time.

Jewelry shown above:

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